Part not sticking
 The plastic won't stick to the bed, it just drags around!
- Clean the Kapton with acetone or alcohol to remove any oils or fingerprints.
Some people dissolve a small scrap of abs plastic into the acetone to make the parts stick better.
- Make sure the bed is 85-95C. You can set a cloth or something on it to help it reach a higher temp if it seems to max out around 80C
- Adjust the Z tab to make sure the first layer is pressed onto the bed enough to give it a wider area of contact.
- Make sure the bed is level. If one side is lower, it won't stick as well in that area.
- Settings to try-
- In Slic3r set the First layer extrusion width to 150%
- Set the first layer to print 5C hotter
- Set the first layer to print slower.
- Consider clipping a glass plate to the bed. Sometimes the aluminum warps so an area will be low no matter how much you try to level, but glass will be flat. Clip it on no more than 3 corners, and level the bed after you add the glass.
- Coat the build surface with hairspray. This creates a texture that helps ABS to stick, especially to glass. Take the glass out to spray it. If you spray the Aluminum/Kapton, use a piece of paper to shield the rest of the printer from the spray. Aquanet works pretty well.
- If it won't stick to hairspray/glass, try putting Kapton on the glass too. You can keep Kapton on one side of the glass and flip the plate over if you need it.
- As a last resort coat the build surface with acetone that has a little bit of ABS dissolved in it. This is almost guaranteed to work, and you might have a hard time getting the print off when done.
 My print keeps curling up partway through!
- ABS shrinks as it cools, and as upper layers cool and shrink they can pull the lower layers with them causing warping.
- Turn on "Brim" in the Slic3r settings, set to 3-5mm wide. This adds a single layer outline around the part which helps hold the edges down.
- Enclose the printer using the case if you bought one, or a DIY solution. Even taping cardboard to the sides and top can help. This helps hold the heat in so the print cools more slowly and doesn't have as much variation in temperature within the print. It also helps keep drafts from cooling the plastic too quickly. You can even warm the inside of the printer with a miniature space heater, but make sure the incoming air cannot blow directly on the print.
- If the design allows it, add voids inside the solid areas of the print and on the bottom. Shrinking areas of plastic in the middle of the print cannot pull against the edges if there are empty spaces between them.
- Also try reducing the fill if possible. More plastic inside the prints creates more shrinking and pulling against the outside.